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Start Up Instructions

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WWW.CONSULTINGTEMPLATE.COM @ ALL RIGHT RESERVED 2017

WWW.CONSULTINGTEMPLATE.COM @ ALL RIGHT RESERVED 2017

For newly replastered pools

-Does not apply for pebble pools-

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Start up:

  • Once the pool has started to fill, do not shut the water off for any reason. Wait until the pool is completely full. If you have concerns about overfilling the pool, turn the water down, do not turn if off. This will prevent a "bathtub ring" from forming on the plaster where the water stops.
  • Do not enter the pool for any reason until it is completely full of water.
  • It is not necessary or advised to spray the pool down with water.
  • Do not use your automatic water fill, simply let it fill with a water hose from the bottom to the top.
  • Once the pool is full, turn on the pump, there will be air in the system so the pump basket may need to be primed.
  • Add cyanuric acid(water stabilizer) to the skimmer and let it work into the filter. About 1 lb for every 5000 gallons of water.
  • Run the pump and filter the water for 3 days.

NEW PLASTER START UP SCHEDULE

MOTTLING

PLASTER FLUFF

 You will notice that the plaster has slight shade variations similar to that of cumulus clouds. This is known as mottling and is not considered a deficiency. These variations of white are usually more pronounced in the shade and will quite often bleach out over a period of years. Spot etching (caused by low alkalinity or adding too much acid at one time) can make mottling more pronounced.

When water is added to a freshly plastered swimming pool, the acid in the water mixes with the base in the plaster, causing a chemical reaction. From this chemical reaction a type of salt forms, nick named "Plaster Fluff" because of its likeness to plaster. This "Fluff" as its called, must be brushed and filtered out of the pool, otherwise it will stick to the plaster, causing a discolored surface.

 Note: This is a basic guideline to help you clean out the plaster fluff and condition, balance and prepare your water for routine maintenance. You may wish to consult your local pool store or pool service for exact amounts of chemicals to add. Most pool stores will test your water for free if you bring in a water sample.

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Day 1

1. Shut the water off when it reaches the middle of the tile or skimmer throat.

2. Remove your pump lid, clean out the motor basket and make sure the pump has enough water for prime. (The pump reservoir only needs to be about 3/4 of the way full to prime).

3. If you have a cartridge filter, remove the cartridge, clean it out with a water hose and put it back together. If you have a sand filter, backwash for 3 minutes or until the water backwashing is clean. If you have a DE filter, backwash or, take apart and clean the grids if necessary. Replenish the DE.

4. Turn the equipment on. If you have a timer, set it to run continuously.

5. Add one to two gallons of liquid chlorine. Note: You may need to add more on larger pools. Fill the chlorine floater with chlorine tabs. Note: Tabs will not be very effective until stabilizer is added. Do not add stabilizer until fluff is completely gone.

6. Start adjusting your alkalinity between 100 and 160 ppm. If the alkalinity is high (most common) add acid. Note: Do not add more than 1 quart of acid per day. If the alkalinity is low, add pH buffer (sodium bicarbonate).

7. If the alkalinity is in the proper range, you may adjust your pH. If the pH is too high, add acid. If the pH is too low, add soda ash After adjusting the pH, check the alkalinity again. You may need to go back and forth between alkalinity and pH until both are adjusted correctly.

8. Install your automatic cleaning system.

9. Let the cleaner vacuum up the fluff and clean or backwash the filter as needed. (You may need to clean or backwash the filter several times, refer to step 3). Then brush the entire pool to get the areas the cleaner missed.

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Day 2

1. Remove your pump lid, clean out the motor basket and make sure the pump has enough water for prime. If you have a cartridge filter, remove the cartridge, clean it out with a water hose and put it back together. If you have a sand filter, backwash for 3 minutes or until the water backwashing is clean. If you have a DE filter, it is not necessary to clean the grids again until all of the fluff is gone.

2. If the water is not blue, add one to two gallons of liquid chlorine. Note: You may need to add more on larger pools. Fill the chlorine floater with chlorine tabs. Note: Tabs will not be very effective until stabilizer is added. Do not add stabilizer until fluff is completely gone.

3. Adjust your alkalinity between 100 and 160 ppm. If the alkalinity is high (most common) add acid. Note: Do not add more than 1 quart of acid per day. If the alkalinity is low, add pH buffer (sodium bicarbonate).

4. If the alkalinity is in the proper range, you may adjust your pH. If the pH is too high, add acid. If the pH is too low, add soda ash. After adjusting the pH, check the alkalinity again. You may need to go back and forth between alkalinity and pH until both are adjusted correctly.

5. Back wash as needed.

6. Brush the entire pool toward the main drain.

Alkalinity

Adjusting the alkalinity to between 80 and 120 ppm makes balancing the pH much easier and prevents problems with the plaster, thus extending the life of your plaster. If the alkalinity is below 80 ppm add a small amount of pH buffer (sodium bicarbonate) daily until it reads above 80 ppm. If the alkalinity is above 120 ppm add one quart (4 ounces for spas) of hydrochloric or muriatic acid per day, with the equipment running, until the reading is below 120 ppm. Low alkalinity causes copper sulfate staining, premature breakdown of the plaster and can corrode equipment parts. High alkalinity causes calcium scale to form on pool surface which causes a stained and rough surface. Once the alkalinity has been brought into balance you should check and adjust it, if necessary, once a month. 

pH

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